Nothing high powered I would use some grease lighting and a waterhose without alot of pressure just like cleaning a car motor I would guess. Would want to keep any water out of the electrical stuff. Then again I don't know much about boat motors, and just enough about car motors to be dangerous.
cleaning a motor
Is there any reason why I can't take a hose or a power washer and clean the Yamaha? I pulled the cowling off and it is full of mud dauber dirt and other packed in dirt and some of it is packed in there pretty good. Not sure how that much dirt got packed in there under the cowling but it has to come out. There was so much grime and dirt packed in around the shifting linkage I had to take a stick to dig some of it out before I could get the motor in reverse. Never did get it cleaned around it good enough to get in forward gear. The motor did turn over by hand in reverse though so that is a good thing. At least I know it is not seized up.
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SJ, I have hosed down my old 150 after every trip in the gulf. Just stay away from the carbs and let it air dry before putting the cowl back on and you should be fine. I would spray some purple power on the block and heads and wash it off and scrub the gunk that would not come right off, that GooGone stuff works well with grease/oil/grim.
It's not greasy just dirt.
I would not take a power washer to your outboard...could screw up some of your electronics. You can take a clean stiff brush with some warm water with ivory or dawn and brush the mud and grease away. Then dry the engine with a clean cloth. You can spray on some WD 40 or better yet, some Corrosion X to make the engine look nice and protect it from rust.Is there any reason why I can't take a hose or a power washer and clean the Yamaha? I pulled the cowling off and it is full of mud dauber dirt and other packed in dirt and some of it is packed in there pretty good. Not sure how that much dirt got packed in there under the cowling but it has to come out. There was so much grime and dirt packed in around the shifting linkage I had to take a stick to dig some of it out before I could get the motor in reverse. Never did get it cleaned around it good enough to get in forward gear. The motor did turn over by hand in reverse though so that is a good thing. At least I know it is not seized up.
Also, if the engine hasn't run in a while, pull the plugs and squirt some lubricant in the cylinders, let it set for a few minutes and turn the engine over by hand to lube the cylinder walls.
I got most of it out of the engine compartment. Most of the dirt was in the floor of the bottom cowl where I couldn't even get a toothbrush into so really couldn't use any kind of a brush much but was able to get a tooth brush into some of the areas and scrubbed the dirt loose. I got it pretty clean compared to what it was. Clean enough I can get it to go into reverse and forward now. The motor has almost zero grease on it. I was wondering about spraying some sort of lubricant into the cyl's before cranking on it since it has been sitting for a while. Any certain lub for the cyl's or just anything like WD40?
I read that "Ring Free" was good to spray in cyl's of a motor that has been sitting. Anyone use this stuff?
could'nt hurt..I have always sprayed wd40 under my cowling and around linkage to keep the rust off.. But if the motor has been siting for awhile the ring free probably is a good idea..might as well change the plugs while you have them out..I would recommend draining the lower unit oil just to make sure no water is in it..and replace with the synthetic gear oil. Buy some of the new orings for the lower unit drain plug and vent plug.I read that "Ring Free" was good to spray in cyl's of a motor that has been sitting. Anyone use this stuff?
also if there was any gas left in the tank I would drain it all out and start fresh..
Ring Free is recomended by Yamaha for there 2 strokes (last I checked anyway). When I put gas in my bass boat I always put ring free. I dont see a problem. I would turn it over with the plugs out after putting it in there.
get a shop vac and some small "tools" (an ice pick, small screw driver, larger screw driver, what ever else can help you reach in and scrape tight spaces). Have that shop vac sucking the entire time you are scrapeing. Once the vast majority of the dirt is removed, I would begin with WD40 to "wash" the engine. shop vac to suck up more dirt that is loosened and wipe with clean rags. Wrap a screw driver with an old cut up t-shirt to form a big Q-Tip
agree!also if there was any gas left in the tank I would drain it all out and start fresh..
and install a 10 Micron filter with a sight glass bottom & drain before trying to pump any fuel to the engine.
Starting with a new tank so no old gas. Install the filter in addition to the fuel line filter/s that is/are already on it?agree! and install a 10 Micron filter with a sight glass bottom & drain before trying to pump any fuel to the engine.
a filter with a sight glass bottom is a great idea in my opinion. Even if dirt / debris isn't an issue with a new tank, it will also separate water if any gets into the tank (even worse now with ethanol). simple to drain the water from the sight glass valve.Starting with a new tank so no old gas. Install the filter in addition to the fuel line filter/s that is/are already on it?
This might be overkill for your set up, especially if you only use pure gas and don't let gas sit up a long time.
You can also use PB Blaster. Let the engine sit overnite after spraying each cylinder. Leave the plugs out and turn over by hand the next day. Then spray each cylinder with a marine fogging oil. Turn over by hand again.Ring Free is recomended by Yamaha for there 2 strokes (last I checked anyway). When I put gas in my bass boat I always put ring free. I dont see a problem. I would turn it over with the plugs out after putting it in there.
If the engine has been idle for over a year, you will need a new water pump kit. Also, drain the lower unit and put in new lower unit oil.
You will also need to clean and rebuild the carbs....on a Yammy that is simple to do. If the engine was run on good ole ethanol gasoline, you will most likely have to replace all your fuel hoses including all those running to and from your carbs. Ethanol fuel eats up the hoses on the interior and the small pieces will break off and lodge in your newly rebuilt carbs and you will be back to square one with them....been there, done that. Buy the best fuel hoses available that are approved for ethanol fuel, even if you plan on running ethanol free fuel.
When you start the engine up, use a pre mix in your first 5-10 gallons or so...in addition to your oil injection. This will assure you are getting good lubrication on an engine that has been setting up a while. It will smoke more than usual, but that's ok with the pre mix. It will calm down after you run the premix out.
Also, Trout's suggestion of an exterior fuel filter is a good one. Racor makes really good ones. If you get one, make sure it's sized correctly for your Yammy.
Lots of good info here.... Thnx
The Racor filter system can surely save a trip.
As mentioned, if water gets into your fuel, it is as simple to drain as turning a valve.
The water can come from anywhere: condensation, bad fuel, ethanol, etc.
I have been on the water (in foreign territories) and had an engine begin missing and lugging due to an introduction of water into the fuel system. Stuck a gatorade bottle under the sight glass, turned the valve, closed the valve, and went right back into the mission.
As mentioned, if water gets into your fuel, it is as simple to drain as turning a valve.
The water can come from anywhere: condensation, bad fuel, ethanol, etc.
I have been on the water (in foreign territories) and had an engine begin missing and lugging due to an introduction of water into the fuel system. Stuck a gatorade bottle under the sight glass, turned the valve, closed the valve, and went right back into the mission.
I must be looking at the wrong filters Chief. The Racor filter systems I looked at started at $190+.
ELKHUNTER, Agree 100%! Also run Yamahalube Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner Plus, helps with this E10 fuel, there is cheeper things but I like doing the yamaha stuff in my 4stroke. My 2stroke gets ring free and stabile in the fuel tank.
Might as well decarbonize it while your at it if you get it running. Only need a can of carburetor cleaner and new plugs. Id definitely spray the cylinders and let them soak before trying to crank it. Also drain the lower unit and refill with royal purple. Wouldnt be a bad idea to take the carb off and and take the bowl float and needle out and let it soak overnight. If its been sitting up you will probably need a new gasket and float. All this can be done easily and cheap. Id be more than happy to help if you need anything.
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