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nosler accubond?

8.7K views 28 replies 15 participants last post by  W  
#1 · (Edited)
anyone shoot nosler accubond's? I bought a sako a7 roughtech pro for longe range in 308, from my research I think the Nosler accubond trophy grade 165 is my best option. would like to see if any of ya'll had tried these and the performance you got, pass throughs, accuracy exc.... I tried the hornady sst superformance in my tikka with good results but the bolt is very firm to close with certain box's I've tried.found same results in my new sako
 
#2 ·
The Nosler Accubond is the closest thing to a perfect deer bullet that's ever been made.

I shoot them in 25cal. They've never failed to perform.
Accuracy will depend on your particular gun more than anything else.
165gr in a 308 will give you passthroughs on broadside or shallow quartering shots (unless you're one of those idiot high shoulder shooters...in which case, IDK). Probably not on hard quartering, or head-on shots...but nothing else is likely to either.
 
#5 ·
(sorry, long answer)

There are not right or wrong answers to this one, and countless internet forum pages have been filled with this and similar debates. But you asked for opinions, so I'll give mine:

I do not disagree that the Accubond is a very well-designed, well-made bullet. If your rifle shoots them accurately - which is likely - you can use them the rest of your life as your preferred, go-to deer hunting ammo.

However, I'm of the opinion that Accubonds are not the best overall choice. I believe the best all-around bullets for whitetail deer are the traditional "cup and core" designs, such as the Remington Core-Lokt. Almost all bullet manufacturers offer c&c designs like the CL, and if you hand load, there are even more to choose from, such as Speer boat tail spitzers, Sierra GameKing and Pro Hunter, Berger Classic and VLD hunting, Hornady Interlock and SST, Nosler Ballistic Tip. The Speer Hot Cor fits in there somewhere, but it uses a modified form of cup and core, to reduce the chances of air bubbles getting trapped between the jacket (cup) and lead (core) - a primary reason for bullet failure.

There is no doubt that Accubonds are less frangible than "c&c" bullets. They are a bonded bullet, so the jacket is more firmly attached - either physically (such as using solder) or chemically/electromagnetically - to the lead core. The result is a "harder" bullet. To many hunters, a harder, less-frangible bullet is better. And, having loaded and shot many Accubonds in several calibers and weights, I think highly of the bullet. It's as good as any [bonded] bullet on the market.

But for whitetail deer I don't want a bonded bullet. I want a bullet that will expand more readily. I'l trade some hardness for more terminal performance at a greater range of velocities. Yes, by all mean, the Accubond may help in some situations where a c&c may have problems, such as when you're shooting a full-tilt load at the highest velocities, and the deer walks out at 20 yards. Something like a CoreLokt might "blow up," as they say. Or those times when you have to take a weird angle and hit significant bone along the way. But, for me, those instances are very rare, and I prefer the performance of a good ole soft point on most shots I take - broadside, in the crease just at or behind the shoulder. With the very rare exception, I get pass-through with a big exit wound, lots of blood to trail - if I have to trail at all.

And, for me, how much I can shoot is a big consideration, therefore cost is a big consideration. It's my belief that the vast majority of hunters do not shoot nearly often enough, and most deer hunters I know are not nearly the marksmen they consider themselves. I would recommend spending less on ammo and use the savings to shoot more often.

There's not a thing wrong with the Accubond. I just think less expensive bullets are just as effective on deer over the long term.
 
#12 · (Edited)
jakesnake, Great write up and I agree with your points. I would like to add this for consideration since the op mentioned he was getting his 308 for long range shooting. The bullet that is hard enough to hold together at 50 yards and open properly at 150-200 yards may be so hard as to be very little more than a fmj at what the distances considered long range by the op. First point is that the 308 does not launch a 165 very fast when compared to even the 30-06 much less any of the magnums. Given that point one has to look at what the velocity will be at400-500 yards and compare that to the velocity at which the bullet in question will expand on a given hit. In my experience longer range calls for softer bullets compared to the bullet one expects to hold together at the surprise 50 yd close shot.

I used to shoot the Sierra Game King 165 BTHP which according to their literature was develop for western long range hunting on thin skinned game like antelope. It served me well for several years until one rainy day when it opened on the wet hair leaving the cup just inside the skin and the core barely nicked the off side chest wall. Luckily the 200yd shot was where it needed to be behind the shoulder and he fell after about 70yds of running. That is when I went to the other extreme with Barnes X-Bullets. Still use the Triple Shock Barnes but know it is ridiculous overkill.
 
#7 ·
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I was looking at the accubond in 6.5 creedmoor and unless you reload, you're out of luck. They do have the 140 gr Nosler Ballistic Tip in 6.5. Are these the true "blow up" ballistic tips or does anybody know?
 
#8 ·
thanks for all the replies so far, I ordered 4 box's to play with so want know as far as peformance on deer til next fall, i will say i did shoot 40 rounds of 150gr hornady sst while breaking in the barrel. groups were pretty good with sst but had poor performance on two deer this year and a couple last year. no exit on couple last year but they dropped so no need. this year i shot a 10point and doe pass through on both with no blood trail at all, double lung on both deer just behind the shoulder. I bought the sako for couple places i hunt that i may need to reach 500 to 600yds so i think the accubond will penetrate better at those ranges.I am aware that ther sst will not produce a exit hole sometimes and its designed to do alot or terminal damage and extensive wound channel but i think it may separate at the ranges I need to reach. keep the replies comming like what i hear so far with the accubonds may have to start loading my own if they perform like others have said.
 
#18 ·
I used the same exact gun in 308 this year that I initially bought for my wife to elk hunt with. I handloaded some 150g Accubonds that shot well and used them deer hunting. Between her and me we killed 10 deer with it and they performed well. Little better exit hole than Barnes. I would have been shooting Barnes but never could find a combo that the gun liked and got tired of trying. The twist rate on the SAKOs 308 is a little slow for longer bullets like the Barnes imo. However, their 7-08 rate is faster.
 
#22 ·
turkish, Sorry that I implied you did not know. Made a fast assumption and we all know what that brings about.

goodson, I do have a question about the same bullet making the same fps out of both the 308 and 30-06 though. Is that what the company claims or have they been run across a chronograph and it turned out they both ran the same? Would expect the 308 to be 100 or more fps slower based on my experience loading for both cartridges, however not for the Accubond
 
#29 ·
Good results from the Accubond for me and my son in 257 WBY. Sounds like you have enough bullets, but if you try something else, check out the Nosler Ballistic Tip. The 180 gr does well in my 300 WBY. 220 lb buck, 476 yard pass thru this year. Good results at 300 yards + the past several seasons.